Alkylphenol (AP) and Alkylphenol Ethoxylates (APEOs): including all isomers
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
APEOs can be used as or found in: detergents, scouring agents, spinning oils, wetting agents, softeners, emulsifier/dispersing agents for dyes and prints, impregnating agents, de- gumming for silk production, dyes and pigment preparations, polyester padding and down/feather fillings.
Substance
Nonylphenol (NP), mixed isomers
Nonylphenolethoxylates (NPEO)
Octylphenolethoxylates (OPEO)
Octylphenol (OP),mixed isomers
Anti- Microbials & Biocides
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
These substances have biocidal properties, making it useful for Multiple preservation applications.
Substance
o-Phenylphenol (+salts)
Permethrin
In most situations, deliberate use is not permitted. However, it should be noted that Permethrin is approved for use on PT18 under BPR and is permitted for use on wool curtains and carpets, rugs and floor coverings. Permethrin is permitted for PPE use (EU 2016/425, EPA registered product, APVMA Registered Product, PMRA Registered Product, etc.). Also, its use is sometimes stipulated for certain end uses such as military. All efforts should be made to maximise the durability of the chemical finish and to minimise losses to the environment.
Triclosan
Chlorinated Parafins
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
These are used occasionally as flame retardants in certain industries. In leather formulations, these are also used as fat liquoring agents.
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
Chlorobenzenes and Chlorotoluenes (chlorinated aromatic hydrocarbons) can be used as carriers in the dyeing process of polyester or wool/polyester fibres. They can also be used as solvents.
Substance
1,2-dichlorobenzene
Other isomers of mono-, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- and hexa- Chlorobenzene and mono-, di-, tri-, tetra- and penta- chlorotoluene
Chlorophenols
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
Chlorophenols are polychlorinated compounds used as preservatives or pesticides. Pentachlorophenol (PCP) and tetrachlorophenol (TeCP) have been used in the past to prevent mould when storing/ transporting raw hides and leather. They are now regulated and should not be used.
Substance
Pentachlorophenol (PCP)1
Tetrachlorophenol(TeCP)1
2,4-dichlorophenol2
2-chlorophenol2
2,5-dichlorophenol2
2,6-dichlorophenol2
2,4,6-trichlorophenol2
3,5-dichlorophenol2
2,4,5-trichlorophenol2
2,3-dichlorophenol2
3,4-dichlorophenol2
3-chlorophenol2
4-chlorophenol2
2,3,4-trichlorophenol2
3,4,5-trichlorophenol2
2,3,5-trichlorophenol2
2,3,6-trichlorophenol2
Dyes – Azo (Forming Restricted Amines)
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
Azo dyes and pigments are colourants that incorporate one or several azo groups (-N=N-) bound with aromatic compounds. Thousands of azo dyes exist, but only those that degrade to form the listed cleavable amines are restricted. Azo dyes that release these amines are regulated and should no longer be used for the dyeing of textiles. Please find a non-exhaustive list of dyes which can form restricted amines in the appendix.
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
Most of these substances are regulated and should no longer be used for the dyeing of textiles.
Substance
C.I. Basic Violet 14
C.I. Direct Black 38
C.I. Direct Blue 6
C.I. Acid Red 26
C.I. Direct Red 28
C.I. Basic Red 9
C.I. Disperse Blue 1
C.I. Basic Blue 26 (with Michler’s Ketone > 0.1%)
C.I. Disperse Blue 3
C.I. Basic Green 4 (Malachite Green Oxalate)
C.I. Basic Green 4 (Malachite Green Chloride)
Disperse Orange 11
C.I. Basic Green 4 (Malachite Green)
C.I. Acid Violet 49
Basic violet 3 with >0.1% of Michler´s Ketone
Dyes – Disperse (Sensitising)
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
Disperse dyes are a class of water- insoluble dyes that penetrate the fibre system of synthetic or manufactured fibres and are held in place by physical forces without forming chemical bonds. Disperse dyes are used in synthetic fibre (e.g. polyester, acetate, polyamide). Restricted disperse dyes are suspected of causing allergic reactions and should no longer be used for dyeing of textiles.
Substance
Disperse Yellow 39
Disperse Brown 1
Disperse Yellow 1
Disperse Blue 102
Disperse Blue 106
Disperse Orange 37/59/76
Disperse Orange 1
Disperse Yellow 3
Disperse Red 11
Disperse Red 1
Disperse Red 17
Disperse Yellow 49
Disperse Blue 7
Disperse Blue 26
Disperse Yellow 9
Disperse Blue 124
Disperse Blue 35
Disperse Orange 3
Disperse Blue 35
Dyes – Navy Blue Colourant
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
Navy Blue Colourant is regulated and should no longer be used for the dyeing of textiles.
Substance
Component 1: C39H23Cl-CrN7O12S 2Na
Component 2: C46H-30CrN10O20S2 3Na
Flame Retardants
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
Flame retardant chemicals are rarely used to meet flammability requirements in children’s clothing and adult products. They should no longer be used in apparel and footwear.
All Halogenated Flame Retardants are banned from intentional use that means including but not exclusive the list below;
Substance
Octabromodiphenyl ether (OctaBDE)
Tris(2-chloroethyl)phosphate (TCEP)
Tris(2,3,-dibromopropyl)-phosphate (TRIS)
Bis(2,3-dibromopropyl)phosphate (BIS)
Decabromodiphenyl ether (DecaBDE)
Pentabromodiphenyl ether (PentaBDE)
Tris(1-aziridinyl)phosphineoxide) (TEPA)
Tetrabromobisphenol A(TBBPA)
Tris(1,3-dichloro-isopropyl)phosphate (TDCP)
Polybromobiphenyls (PBB)
2,2-bis(bromomethyl)-1,3-propanediol (BBMP)
Hexabromocyclododecane(HBCDD)
Boric acid
Decabromobiphenyl (DecaBB)
Disodium tetraborate, anhydrous
Disodium octaborate
dibromopropylether
Diboron trioxide
Heptabromodiphenyl ether (HeptaBDE)
Dibromobiphenyls (DiBB)
Monobromodiphenylethers (MonoBDEs)
Monobromobiphenyls (MonoBB)
Hexabromodiphenyl ether (HexaBDE)
Nonabromobiphenyls (NonaBB)
Nonabromodiphenyl ether (NonaBDE)
Octabromobiphenyls (OctaBB)
Tetraboron disodium heptaoxide, hydrate
Tetrabromodiphenyl ether (TetraBDE)
Tribromodiphenylethers (TriBDEs)
Tris-(2-chloro-1-methylethyl)phosphate (TCPP)
Glycols / Glycol Ethers
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
In apparel and footwear, glycols have a wide range of uses including as solvents for finishing/ cleaning, printing agents, and dissolving/ diluting fats, oils, and adhesives (e.g. in degreasing or cleaning operations).
Substance
Ethylene glycol dimethylether
2-methoxyethylacetate
2-ethoxyethanol
2-methoxyethanol
Bis(2-methoxyethyl)-ether
2-ethoxyethyl acetate
2-methoxypropylacetate
Triethylene glycol dimethyl ether
Halogenated Solvents
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
In apparel and footwear, halogenated solvents are used as finishing/ cleaning and printing agents, for dissolving/ diluting fats, oils and adhesives (e.g. in degreasing or cleaning operations).
Substance
Methylene chloride
Trichloroethylene
Tetrachloroethylene
Benzylchloride
1,2-dichloroethane
Organotin Compounds
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
Organotins are a class of chemicals combining tin and organics such as butyl and phenyl groups. Organotins are predominantly found in the environment as antifoulants in marine paints, but they can also be used as biocides (e.g. antibacterials), catalysts in plastic and glue production and heat stabilisers in plastics/rubber. In textiles and apparel, organotins are associated with plastics/rubber, inks, paints, metallic glitter, polyurethane products and heat transfer material.
Substance
Dibutyltin (DBT)
Mono-, di- and tri-methyltin derivatives
Mono-, di- and tri-octyltin derivatives
Mono-, di- and tri-phenyltin derivatives
Mono- and tri-butyltin derivatives
Dipropyltin compounds (DPT)
Tetraethyltin Compounds (TeET)
Tripropyltin Compounds (TPT)
Tetrabutyltin compounds (TeBT)
Tetraoctyltin compounds (TeOT)
Tricyclohexyltin (TCyHT)
Other/ Miscellaneous Chemicals
These are other chemicals/ substances/ process with a usage ban.
Substance
Borate, zinc salt
Borate, zinc salt can be used as a flame retardant but also in paints, pigments, and adhesives.
Bisphenol A
Bisphenol A (BPA) is a precursor chemical used along with other chemicals to create some plastics and resins. It is commonly used to harden plastics.
Thiourea
Thiourea is used in many formulations to increase the solubility.
Quinoline
Contaminant of dispersing agents in disperse dyes.
Silica (particles of respirable size)
Respirable particles of silica are often generate during the process of sand blasting.
AEEA [2-(2-aminoethylamino)ethanol]
AEEA is used a.o. in chelating agents, surfactants and fabric softeners.
Perfluorinated and Polyfluorinated Chemicals (PFCs)
Durable water, oil and stain repellent finishes based on long-chain PFC’s are banned from intentional use. There are two methods of manufacture of PFCs referred to as electrofluorination and telomerisation. PFC’s made by the electrofluorination method have by-products associated with them called perfluoroalkyl sulphonates with the most common being the C8 species Perfluorooctane sulphonate (PFOS). The deliberate use of any PFCs made by electrofluorination with a chain length of C6 or above is not permitted. The detection of any PFOS analogue as where the chain length is 6 units or longer will trigger a failure [i.e. PFHS and above]. These types of PFCs are typically used in home textiles. PFC’s made by the telomerisation method have by-products associated with them called perfluorocarboxylic acids with the most common being the C8 species perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA). The deliberate use of any PFCs made by telomerisation with a chain length of C8 or above is restricted. ZDHC plans to further restrict the use of PFCs in future revisions and details can be found in the candidate list is not permitted. The detection of any PFOA analogue as where the chain length is 8 units or longer will trigger a failure (i.e. PFOA and above). These types of PFCs are typically used in clothing and footwear.
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
PFOA and PFOS may be present as unintended by-products in long-chain commercial water, oil and stain repellent agents. PFOA also may be in used in the production for polymers like polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE).
Substance
Perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) and related substances
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and related substances
Phthalates – including all other esters of ortho-phthalic acid
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
Esters of ortho-phthalic acid (phthalates) are a class of organic compounds commonly added to plastics to increase flexibility. They sometimes are used to facilitate moulding of plastic by decreasing its melting temperature. Phthalates can be found in:
- Flexible plastic components (e.g. PVC)
- Print pastes
- Adhesives
- Plastic buttons
- Plastic sleevings
- Polymeric coatings
Substance
Di-n-octyl phthalate(DNOP)5
Bis(2-methoxyethyl)phthalate (DMEP)5
Di-iso-decyl phthalate(DIDP)5
Di(ethylhexyl) phthalate(DEHP)5
Di-isononyl phthalate(DINP)5
Di-n-hexyl phthalate(DnHP)5
Butyl benzyl phthalate(BBP)5
Dibutyl phthalate (DBP)5
Dinonyl phthalate (DNP)5
Diethyl phthalate (DEP)5
Di-n-propyl phthalate(DPRP)5
Di-cyclohexyl phthalate(DCHP)5
Di-isobutyl phthalate(DIBP)5
Di-iso-octyl phthalate(DIOP)5
1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C7-11 branched and liearalkyl esters (DHNUP)5
1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C6-8 branched and liearalkyl esters , C7-rich (DIHP)5
Diisopentylphthalates5
Di-n-pentylphthalates5
Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs)
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
Oil containing PAHs are added to rubber and plastics as a softener or extender and may be found in rubber, plastics, lacquers, and coatings. Within the footwear producing industry, PAHs are often found in the outsoles of footwear and in printing pastes for screen prints. PAHs can be present as impurities in carbon black dyestuffs.
Substance
Benzo[a]pyrene
Pyrene3,4
Benzo[ghi]perylene3,4
Benzo[j]fluoranthene3,4
Anthracene3,4
Indeno[1,2,3-cd]pyrene3,4
Benzo[e]pyrene3,4
Benzo[b]fluoranthene3,4
Benzo[k]fluoranthene3,4
Fluoranthene3,4
Acenaphthylene3,4
Dibenz[a,h]anthracene3,4
Chrysene3,4
Phenanthrene3,4
Acenaphthene3,4
Fluorene3,4
Naphthalene3
Benzo[a]anthracene3,4
Total Heavy Metals
In the list below the formulation limit for As, Cd, Hg, Pb and Cr VI apply to all types of formulation. Where there is a specific limit for pigments that that is different to the general limit this is shown in brackets.
The formulation limits for Sb, Cr, Ba, Se, Sn, Ni, Cu, Co and Ag only apply to dye and/or pigment formulations. Any differences between limits for dyes and pigments are indicated in the formulation limit column.
The limits for the heavy metals do not apply to colourants containing a listed metal as an inherent compositional part (e.g. metal-complex colorants, the double salts of certain cationic colourants or extenders like barium sulfate).
When using any colourant with listed metals as an inherent compositional part, wet processors need to be aware of the need to comply with brand RSL limits with respect to extractable metals from dyed materials and they also need to be aware of the metal limits in the ZDHC wastewater guidelines. Where RSL and/or wastewater issues are observed wet processors should discuss this with supply chain partners.
For the listed exceptions, laboratory tests to determine separately metal contaminants that are not bound into a colourant (free metals) are under development.
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
Although typically associated with leather tanning, chromium VI also may be used in the dyeing of wool (after the chroming process).
Substance
Arsenic (As)
Cadmium (Cd)
Mercury (Hg)
Lead (Pb)
Chromium (VI)
Antimony
Chromium
Barium
Selenium
Tin
Nickel
Copper
Cobalt
Silver
UV absorbers
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
These are frequently used in formulations to be stable to the influences of light and UV
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
These Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC) should not be used in textile auxiliary chemical preparations. They are associated with solvent-based processes like solvent-based polyurethane coatings and glues/ adhesives. They should not be used for any kind of facility cleaning or spot cleaning.
Substance
Benzene
o-cresol
p-cresol
Xylene
m-cresol
Chapter 2: ZDHC MRSL Candidate List
(Free) Aniline
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
Used for indigo and to manufacture AZO Dyes (especially the leather dyes).
Substance
(Free) Aniline
ADCA
Potential Uses in Apparel and Footwear Textile Processing
ADCA is used as a foaming/ blowing agent for rubber applications.
